Spilling the Tea

If you’re reading this then you’ve likely just been to (or are currently at) The Courtauld’s After Hours: Tea Party. Hopefully you have one of AVM Curiosities’ customised teabags to hand, in which case pop on the kettle as we explore the history of tea in more depth. The aim of this “intervention” is to brew up discussion and infuse you with a more developed knowledge of this powerful commodity, exploring this foodstuff’s global history through our minds and stomachs.

First up, a sip of tea history…

This quintessential “English” beverage has an exotic and global history with strong links to Empire and power. As a commodity it’s something that has changed the world and is still part of many people’s everyday lives. Whether you prefer English Breakfast Tea, Earl Grey or Lapsang Souchong, tea drinking has been a popular British ritual since it was first been popularised in England by King Charles II and his Portuguese wife, Catherine de Braganza, in the 1600s.

But how did this exotic crop come to be considered a marker of “Englishness”. The story of tea is one of trade and money, as much as taste and mouthfeel. Originating in China, the initial imports of tea to Britain were costly and heavily taxed. They were procured through the East India Company who maintained a monopoly of the trade, meaning that only the very wealthy could afford it. However, after the tax was reduced and tea became more affordable, it began to replace gin as the go-to breakfast drink! The British consumption of tea then grew exponentially, which resulted in huge sums of money being spent on this exotic crop. At first the UK had traded tea with China in exchange for opium, but when this was suppressed by the Chinese government, the English looked for an alternative source.

In the 1830s, the first tea estates were established in the north eastern Indian state of Assam - using crops procured from China. These vast plantations were part of the British colonisation of India and Sri Lanka, with teas like Darjeeling and Ceylon ending the British Empire’s dependence on Chinese imports. This was a shift of power that goes far beyond a single foodstuff and into much wider debates into commodities, colonisation and power. Some say the British Empire was built on tea, but tea fuelled England through more than tastebuds. Tea was a catalyst for colonisation and conflict that shaped the British Empire.

By the Victorian era, tea drinking had become heavily engrained in the English home. It was a beverage enjoyed by all echelons of society, however, one way in which the tea experience differed was in the material culture of the table. Tea drinking for the wealthy came with a whole host of accessories – fine porcelain teacups, bowls and saucers, decorative teapots, mahogany tea caddies, silver tea urns, exquisite table linens and personalised tea blends. Tea drinking at home enabled upper class women to entertain mixed company, without their husbands, and was therefore quite revolutionary. As a result, tea drinking was heavily associated with the home - in contrast to the more masculine external world of coffee - which is why we still go out for coffee and invite people over for tea. The ritual still pervades today.

Further Reading:

  • A History of the World in Six Glasses by Tom Standage (2006)

  • Tea and Tea Drinking by Claire Masset (2010)

  • The Hungry Empire: How Britain’s Quest for Food Shaped the Modern World by Lizzie Collingham (2018)

  • A Social History of Tea: Tea's Influence on Commerce, Culture & Community by Jane Pettigrew (2015)

  • Tea: The Drink That Changed the World by Laura C. Martin (2007)

  • Tea (Edible): A Global History by Helen Saberi (2010)

The Courtauld silverware collection, including a silver teapot and tea caddy.

How to enjoy black tea:

Black tea is a very flexible drink, which is part of its global appeal. It can be drunk hot or cold. Sweetened, flavoured or plain. Black teas pair well with milk, cream, condensed milk or even a slice of lemon. Tea can be drunk to relax, or to invigorate. It’s always time for tea!

Quantity:
On average, use 3-5g of tea per cup

Temperature:
For a strong black tea, the optimum water temperature is between 80-95°C

Time:
On average, infuse for 3-4 minutes, tasting regularly.

What is black tea:

Black tea is a type of tea that is more oxidized than oolong, green, yellow, and white teas. Black tea is generally stronger in flavour than other teas. All five types are usually made from leaves of the Camellia sinensis, though Camellia taliensis is also used on occasion. While green tea can lose its flavour within a year, black tea retains its taste for several years. For this reason, it has long been an article of trade, and compressed bricks of black tea even served as a form of de facto currency in Mongolia, Tibet and Siberia into the 19th century.

Tea Brick, modern reproduction (detail).

Black tea selection:

1. English Breakfast | Blend

The most popular tea drunk in the UK. This blend was first created by Twinings in 1933. Full-bodied, robust, rich and blended to go well with milk and sugar (if you are so inclined). English Breakfast blends contain a combination of Indian Assam, Ceylon, or Kenyan black teas. You may also find Kee Mun, Sumatran, Java, or Darjeeling mixed in. Each brand closely guards the exact details of their blend and it is a rare skill to be able to balance teas to create continuity of taste and flavour.

2. Earl Grey | Blend

This pleasant tea is now mainly Darjeeling, Assam or Ceylon tea infused with bergamot oil. Bergamot is a type of citrus grown in southern Italy and is said to derive from a fusion of bitter orange and lemon. Twinings claims to have originated Earl Grey tea for sale in the UK, having been given the recipe by the 2nd Earl Grey in 1831.

3. Assam | India

This tea is primarily grown in the Assam region in India. Good Assam tea is boldly fragrant but not overpowering. A first sip may uncover astringent and tannic qualities. However, a rich aftertaste of roasted malt and creamy chocolate makes for a smooth finish.

4. Darjeeling | India

The unique flavour of Darjeeling comes from Chinese tea genetics mixing with Indian terroir. Darjeeling is a delicate black tea with a complex flavour profile. Sometimes referred to as the champagne of teas, Darjeeling tea is among the most sought-after teas across the globe. It's a tea that's best enjoyed on its own without the addition of milk as it can compromise its delicate flavour.

5. Kenyan | Kenya

Currently, Kenya is the third largest tea producer in the world, after China and India. In Kenya, tea is mainly grown in the districts of Thika, Maragua, Kericho, Bomet, Nandi, Kiambu, and Kakamega. Today, the Kenya Tea Development Agency promotes the advancement of tea horticulture among native tea farmers. By itself, Kenyan black tea is robust and full-bodied, a mysterious, yet alluring bouquet of citrus, anise, cardamom, and chocolate.

6. Lapsang Souchong | China

Known for its luscious, pine smokiness, Lapsang Souchong is the quintessential king of all teas. Today, it still flourishes in the Wuyi mountains of Fujian province and is much favored by tea connoisseurs everywhere. Tea historians maintain that Lapsang Souchong is the earliest of the black teas.

7. Ceylon | Sri Lanka

The first tea plants in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) originated from the Chinese sinensis variety, which the British brought over in 1824. By 1840, the British were importing Assam tea seeds to the island colony in spades. They were so successful in their tea hegemonic goals that Ceylon emerged as the world's leading tea exporter in 1965. Ceylon black teas boast full-bodied citrusy flavours, with subtle chocolaty nuances.

8. Dian Hong | China

This exquisite tea is primarily grown in Yunnan province, China. Dian Hong comes in four varieties: Broken Yunnan, Yunnan Gold, Yunnan Pure Gold, and Golden Needle. Of the four, Yunnan Pure Gold distinguishes itself by its "golden tips" (fine leaf buds): this variety is considered the most exclusive of the Dian Hong teas. Dian Hong is rich and well-balanced in flavour, with no astringent aftertaste.

9. Nepali | Nepal

A very aromatic, medium leaf tea with a round and spicy bouquet. Lively and complex. High-grown in the foothills of the Himalayas, close to Darjeeling. Although not as well-known as Darjeeling, Nepalese teas are equal in quality and freshness and are beginning to make inroads to the Western market. The bushes here were planted later than those in Darjeeling resulting in a younger character and leaf. The growing height, the soil, the temperature, the air and rainfall all add to the flavour and quality of this tea.

10. Moriuchi Koucha | Japan

A rare black Japanese loose-leaf tea hand-crafted in Shizuoka by the revered master Moriuchi-san. Black tea was first grown in Japan at the end of the 19th century in response to the growing fashion for darker tea in Europe, particularly the UK. As cheaper black tea and a patriotic preference for "colonial" tea grew to dominate, the market demand dwindled. As a result, Japanese black teas are rarely seen outside of Japan - which is a huge shame, as you will discover when you try this exquisite loose-leaf tea.

11. Lahijan | Iran

Tea cultivation in Iran does not have the long history of China and India, but the specific climate of northern Iran is famed for producing a great product. Iranians have one of the highest per capita rates of tea consumption in the world. Characterised by its strong taste and nice aroma this tea has a long brewing time of 10–15 minutes. For those wishing to modify their tea, it traditional to add rosewater, cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods to the pot and serve with sugar, raisins, dates, honey or a splash of milk - but purists warn that any such additions may take away from the appreciation for the natural taste.

12. Waikato | New Zealand

The Waikato black loose-leaf tea is a full-bodied, deep-amber liquor with a sweet, honeyed undertone and smooth, silky finish. Waikato teas are grown on the North Island of New Zealand, known for its unique climate and growing conditions. The first black tea probably came to New Zealand in the late 18th century, but it was not until the arrival of British missionaries in the first half of the 19th century that a tea culture became established. New Zealand is not a major tea producer and the populace drinks more coffee than tea, but this variety is too special not to include.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of black teas, there are many many more variations and types that I didn’t have the space to include. Rize from Turkey and Sun Moon Lake from Taiwan are on my own list to try soon - and I encourage everyone to expand their tea horizons and try something new!